TUNING, PULLING DIAMONDS: This is the method used to maintain tension to the drumhead on an ongoing basis. It is mainly used to increase tension, as it is lost over time due to the fact that the skin itself will continue to stretch for a certain period, as well as due to the absorption of moisture. Also, even quality drum- rope should be expected to have some initial stretch, which will lower the tension of the drumhead. NOTE: The rope used for pulling diamonds is usually an extension of the one used for the vertical lacing. The lighter color rope in the illustrations is used for visual purposes.

When pulling diamonds it is best to sit on a padded surface with the drum. The legs are used to stabilise the drum. Keep back straight while pulling.

To pull on the rope, a short, straight piece of stick is used (broomstick, drumstick, clave- stick), or a rigging tool. The rope is wrapped around the stick in the manner illustrated.
The term ‘Diamonds’ refers to the triangular pattern created when two neighboring vertical strands are crossed, by weaving the excess rope left from the vertical lacing in a horizontal direction. Tension can be increased by adding more diamonds or decreased by opening up existing ones. Diamonds are added in progressive order until the desired tension is reached. It is not necessary to complete an entire row every time the drum is tuned. When the beginning point is reached, the weave is continued in the manner of a spiral around the shell. This is continued until the very top of the drum is reached, at which point all diamonds are opened up and the verticals are tightened and the whole process is repeated. If good rope is used and the drum is kept in a moderately dry environment, this point may never come since the drumhead is usually replaced well before the last row of diamonds is reached. Should the rope run out before the last row, more rope can be added by simply tying to the end of the existing one



The rope should be fed through near the top of the drum where the vertical lacing does not sit closely against the shell and should then be pulled downwards to its intended location. This prevents friction from damaging the finish of the drum and the rope is also less likely to twist up. Some effort should be made to prevent the horizontal line from wandering up towards the top of the drum. This limits the number of rows that can ultimately be installed (it also looks nicer)..
Step 5: Continue tuning as needed. When the beginning point is reached, continue to spiral upwards.

Step 6: Here the rope is fed under three of the verticals, over the third and under the middle.

Step 7: Rope is again pulled until the verticals cross, then advance to the next pair.

Step 8: Finish by wrapping the remaining rope around the base of the drum and tie off with a hitch.
Care and Maintenance: The most important aspect of maintenance is clearly that the instrument should be kept inside a good bag or case as much as possible, in particular during transport, just as with other instruments. Since the drumhead is made from natural skin, it will absorb moisture, which will soften the contained proteins which will in turn cause the head to lose tension. Cases, or at least some protective head covering will prevent this. Heat, in turn , will cause the skin cells to release moisture, reducing their size. This causes the head to shrink, increasing tension which can, in he worst case, split the head. Again, cases can prevent this from happening. Cases will also protect the instrument from accidental damage, not to mention from fungi, insects, pets, children, UV radiation, bird droppings, meteors and much more. Should a case really not be available, wrap the drum inside a blanket at least during transport. Avoid rapid changes in temperature. It is a good idea to cover the drumhead with a towel or a small piece of carpet if the drum is displayed at home. Try not to place the instrument close to a heating vent, fireplace or such. Do not place drum in direct sunlight. Strong UV radiation can possibly degrade the skin , but will certainly cause the color of the wood to darken, which is however purely cosmetic and not necessarily unattractive. We find, it actually adds warmth to the instrument. Do not expose drum to rain or excessive moisture. Do not play in saunas or sweat- lodges. Do not use drum as a coffee table. ( this is bad for the skin and it shows disrespect ) Also, dogs will assume that they just got a new chew toy, as they are the same material as the drumhead, so be aware. The drums with goat skin heads are really meant to be played with hands only, but soft mallets may be used. Avoid rim- shots! Do not play with drum sticks! Do not sit on the drum while playing. This will deflect the shell, possibly causing cracks and can put added tension on the head. It will also damage the rope as it rubs on the ground. Do not over- tighten the head. Our drums are meant to be tight, but when stretched too much, the skin will, obviously, break. Tune drum to a point where a slap is easily achieved but bass is not compromised. If drumhead is very tight, loosen a few diamonds before traveling somewhere, in particular to high altitudes or arid environments. Do the same when taking the drum on a plane. It is not necessary to treat our drumheads with oils, lotions, shea butter or anything else. We find that the moisture and oils from the skin of the players hand is sufficient to keep the head subtle. ( we realize that this is a matter of debate among players and builders but we can back our point with careful observations, made in an alpine desert region at 7500 feet ) We recommend clean hands however, as dirt will also be transferred onto the head during playing, which can get pretty nasty after a while. It is also not necessary to treat the shell in any way, as it is constructed so as to expand and contract without developing tension which could cause cracks. A furniture- or instrument oil can be applied to maintain the luster of the finish.
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